A silver and silk needlework shield-shaped purse. [Austria or France? ca. 1700-1725].
The purse (measuring 116 x 90 mm., maximum height and width) has on each side the same embroidered design of an elaborate bouquet of flowers in a rococo urn, within an arabesque frame on a purl background, but each side uses a different color scheme; the urn’s outlines, arabesque frame and edging are of padded silver-couched threads on one side and of flatter yellow and silver couched threads on the other side. On an alloyed metal hinging frame; the narrower folding sides of red velvet. Condition: In fine condition; one or two very small losses (to black thread at center of a flower, to a purl accent at top of one shield, to one of six sequins; the red velvet of sides slightly worn, the ribbed silk purse lining probably later (possibly 20th-century). Provenance: Carrie Lauer Lehman (1865-1937), philanthropist and art and textile collector.***
A lovely escutcheon-shaped small purse, richly embroidered in polychrome silks and silver metallic-wrapped threads. The stitches at the center of the flowers and on the urns are dense, extremely fine small French knots, requiring great skill. The embroiderer used the same floral pattern on each side, but transformed each appearance by varying both the colored threads for the main floral design and the weight, color and thickness of the framing elements.
Such small, shield-shaped purses were especially popular in parts of France and Austria in the first half of the 18th century. Some survive with cord attachments that could be hooked to a belt, but, designed to hold very little other than a few coins, their main purpose by this date was probably to look sweet. This one succeeds admirably. Item #4423
Price: $3,750.00